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Calvin Klein Fall 2016 Menswear MFW
MILAN, JANUARY 17, 2016
by ALEXANDER FURY
Icon is an overused term across contemporary culture, not just in fashion. It’s in current rotation to describe everything from a hamburger to a pair of underpants. Outside the Fall 2016 Calvin Klein Collection show, thousands of screaming girls chanted the name of Cameron Dallas, an apparent online sensation. “He’s our icon,” one of them said, tears streaming down her face. No one in the fashion fraternity seemed to have heard of him, nor could we work out what he did. It was quite Warholian.
That’s the thing about icons; there aren’t that many that everyone can agree on. Italo Zucchelli has more than a few at his disposal at Calvin Klein, though—garment-wise, the logoed waistband and the world’s first wildly successful designer denims rank up high; there are also those tanned, toned, and semi-clad demigods immortalized by Bruce Weber, the kind of guys those teenage girls would have been screaming for 20 years ago. Foiled nylon in gold, platinum, and rose-gold framed the faces and bodies of those mens’ contemporary counterparts, the buffed-out models that make a Calvin Klein show look utterly different from anything else in menswear. I couldn’t help but think they looked a little like gilded Catholic icons of suspiciously good-looking saints. But maybe that wasn’t intentional.
Zucchelli built his collection this time around on another icon: the man’s suit. “I wanted to show the universal power of men’s tailoring,” he said. He decided to do that by putting his men’s suits on women for the first time—the boldface model likes of Mariacarla Boscono, Iselin Steiro, Jessica Miller, and Gemma Ward. They’re not exactly Linda, Christy, Claudia, and Naomi, but the former foursome, they do have an instant-recognition factor. “It’s sensual, sexual,” said Zucchelli of those Calvin suits, worn over bare skin by male and female alike. They were impeccably cut—sometimes so perfectly you didn’t realize quite how they built out the muscular models into Superman proportions. Not that they weren’t already naturally endowed: It takes a special type of man to look good in the CK-waistbanded long-underwear-as-outerwear that bottomed suit jackets at the end of the show. We all know what that means.
Transformation, however, is a fascinating theme in fashion—and particularly here at Klein. Zucchelli transformed denim into a jacquard, painstakingly woven in a trompe l’oeil of daily wear and tear, making the everyday precious. Zucchelli first used that jean jacquard for Spring—so they lacked the pleasant frisson of surprise. Ditto the foiling, which was reminiscent of a very specific Helmut Lang collection. No one was foiled. Alchemy was the reference Zucchelli tossed out—apparently, it’s something he’s wildly enthusiastic about, and has a library full of reference books on the subject. It did make sense, both as the ostensible inspiration behind all that metallic nylon, pumping up the visual impact of utilitarian anoraks and MA1 jackets; and perhaps of the front row presence of the enigmatic Dallas. Judicious googling ascertained he’s has been transformed into pop culture platinum via the alchemic power of 21st-century social media (apparently, he’s an especially adept user of the social media platform Vine).
Did Zucchelli alchemize gold from Klein with this collection? Not quite. The suits were slick, but serviceable; the metallic linings were arresting, but they felt restricted to editorial. There wasn’t enough of that truly iconic Klein branding, either. On the whole, Zucchelli delivered a show that was a fairly solid silver, clad in a well-cut black suit.
I love this edgy look! I was so excited that her hair, even as short as it is now, was still able to be put into the fun and trendy dutch pigtail braids! Instead of braiding to the ends, I ended them in close together pigtails at the nape of her neck. After I finished braiding, I tugged on the outsides of the braid gently to loosen them and make them a little messy and fun! Since she doesn’t have enough hair to tie around the elastics, I made sure to use elastics that matched her hair so they blend in as much as possible. You could also cover them with clips or bows! A view from the back of her Dutch pigtail braids! A great braid for short hair is a micro accent braid! My biggest tip for braiding short hair would be to add in small slices of hair rather than big ones. I did a small (micro) braid along a slightly curved deep part for anther cute and edgy look! You could also do another one next to it if you wanted a little more to the look, but I really liked how simple this one was. You can see how the part curves a little better from this view of the back. I ended the braid close to the head with an elastic that matched her hair. For our fourth style, we did a 3/4 french braid! Super simple but also super cute! You could do any type braid! It would also look cute using a Dutch braid or a fishtail braid! I loved the side view of this braid! I will for sure be doing this one next time she goes to gymnastics or swimming, whichever comes first! Our last braid is two four dutch lace braids into two loops in the back. Start off by parting the hair down the middle. On each side of the part, do a dutch lace braid, adding hair in from only the section closest to the part as you braid. Tie the braids together in the back with a small elastic and before you pull the hair all the way through to make a ponytail, leave it in a cute little loop! If the hair is a little bit longer, you could do a tiny bun. Repeat this directly under the braid you just did so you have two rows and two loops.
We will have to be coming up with lots more short hair braids in the future, so be sure to give us a follow over at our newly redesigned blog Abella’s Braids to see more as we do them!
Thanks for reading! See you again this time next month!
love these ideas! My daughter recently cut about 8 inches off her hair and is loving her shorter hair, but I’ve mostly been at a loss of what to do with it! Thanks!
Abella has been begging me for at least a year, probably closer to two years, to cut her hair. I posted a photo on Instagram with a question in the caption. “Abella has been begging me to cut her hair short, do you think I should let her do it?” Almost everyone said “YES!” So thanks to all of the good advice from my followers, we did it…and we haven’t regretted it for a second! I think she looks so cute and it really fits her personality! It’s for sure a lot harder to come up with braids but it’s pushed me to step out of my comfort zone! We wanted to show you that even if you have short hair, there are lots of cute braids you can still do!
This first braid (above) is three ladder braids. Start out with a part deep to one side. On the side with less hair, start out by doing a waterfall braid along the part. Under that one, do another waterfall braid, but incorporate the waterfall pieces from the one above it as you braid. Under that one, do a french braid. Incorporate the waterfall pieces from the second braid as you go. We braided each one to the ends and used elastics that matched her hair to tie them off.